Bike Problems & Fixes | Bike Repair in Verbier

Usually contamination, glazed pads, worn pads, poor bed-in, or rotor/caliper misalignment.

Usually the caliper is slightly off-center, the rotor is bent, the wheel is not fully seated, or uneven piston movement.

Most often air in the hydraulic system, old brake fluid, or a small leak.

Usually worn pads, contaminated pads/rotor, air in the system, or severe overheating.

If the lever feels soft or pulls too far, think bleed. If the lever feels normal but braking is weak or noisy, think pads.

Most often the wheel is not seated properly, the rotor sits slightly differently after reinstalling.

Possibly, especially on long descents. Signs include fading power, smell, noise changes, discoloration, or brakes improving again after cooling down.

Possibly if they suddenly got noisy, lost power, or were exposed to oil, spray, grease, or dirty cleaning products.

Usually because something in the setup is slightly out of line. Most of the time it comes down to cable tension, indexing, a tired drivetrain, or a derailleur hanger that’s had a small argument with a rock or just been leaning against derailleur when having lunch.

Because the shifting system likes precision, and it does not need much to get grumpy. A small adjustment issue, cable friction, wear, or a bent hanger is often enough to make the whole system feel off.

Usually because the cables and housing are dirty, worn, or dragging more than they should. But could also be as easy as cable tension being slightly off.

That’s usually a sign that cable tension is off or the derailleur hanger is not quite straight. In other words, the bike is not haunted, it just needs attention.

If it only happens when you really put the power down, drivetrain wear is a strong suspect. A worn chain, worn cassette these two wear out in unison. You can usually get two chains out of a cassette but only if you change the chain before it gets to worn.

That could mean slight misadjustment, poor chainline, derailleur alignment issues.
But in most cases it means a drivetrain that’s overdue for a clean, degrease and lubrication. Please clean your bikes people.

Possibly, and it does not need to be very bent to cause surprisingly bad shifting. The hardest thing is that it most times is quite dificult to spot a bent hanger by eye measure. If shifting doesn’t quite feel right, especially after a knock, crash, or travel, the hanger is often worth blaming first.

Because bikes are excellent at making mysterious noises and terrible at telling you exactly where they’re coming from. A creak can come from the frame, but just as often it’s from pedals, headset, seatpost, pivots, or bottom bracket. Annoying, yes. Always serious, no. Usual solution, grease.

Possibly, but not every mark is bad news. Sometimes it’s just paint damage, and sometimes it’s the sort of thing you really should not ignore. If there’s a visible line, spreading damage, or anything that looks structural, optimism is no longer the correct tool.

That depends entirely on what kind of damage it is, but in general this is not an area where “it’ll probably be fine” is a great strategy. Cosmetic scratches are one thing. Cracks, dents or structural damage in the wrong place are quite another. If unsure come by the workshop and let our mechanics asses the damage.

The right amount depends on the bike, the suspension design, and how you ride, but getting sag right is one of the first and most important steps in making the bike feel balanced and perform as it should.

Usually because something in the setup is too firm, too fast, too slow or to soft. Too much pressure, too much compression, or not enough sensitivity can all make the bike feel less fun than it should.

Could be because you’re riding like a true legend. But just as likely could be that the air pressure isn’t set correctly for your weight.

Sometimes it’s a light film and nothing dramatic, and sometimes it’s the suspension’s way of telling you service time arrived a while ago. If there’s noticeable oil where there shouldn’t be, it usually means seals, wear, or internal service needs attention.

Most cases points to worn seals, a valve issue, which means thst the shock or fork is due for service.

Either the suspension is set up too firm, or you’re simply not hitting it hard enough to use everything it has. Not using full travel is not automatically a problem, but if the bike feels overly stiff as well, the setup may need work.

More regularly than most people would like. Exact intervals vary depending on the suspension, but they are usually measured in riding hours rather than years. As a general guide, a basic suspension service is often recommended around every 50 to 100 riding hours, with a more complete internal service around every 100 to 200 hours. Leave it too long and the suspension usually becomes less smooth, less supportive, and more expensive to put service.

Usually because spoke tension is no longer balanced. That can happen gradually over time, or much more quickly after a hard impact. Said hard impact sometimes bend/dent the rim in which spoke tension becomes a minor problem to damage rim.

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. A small wobble or minor bend/dent can often be corrected, but a badly damaged rim usually reaches the point where replacing is the available option.

Most often because the wheel is not straight, the tyre isn’t seated properly on the rim or the wheel is not sitting quite right in the bike. Small causes, surprisingly irritating results.

Usually because the wheel is carrying uneven tension. Or if you’ve been riding it for a good while, is tired enough that one spoke failure starts inviting more. Wheels are very into teamwork, if one spoke goes the rest are soon to follow.

Usually because one part of the wheel has started moving, loosening, or wearing in a way it should not. A click can come from spokes, nipples, freehub, or sometimes even the tyre, which is why these noises are often more annoying to track down than solving.

Because there is movement where there should be none. That can come from loose adjustment, worn bearings, worn internal parts, or all of the above. Ether way a service on it is definitely needed.

Because the mechanism that is meant to engage and drive the wheel is not doing its job properly. That can be caused by wear, dirt, lack of maintenance, or internal parts sticking when they should be catching. Easily mixed up with gear skipping, which complicates the diagnoses.

That depends on how far things have gone. If the hub just feels dry, rough, or slightly unhappy, a service may be enough. If the bearings are worn, damaged, or full of play, replacement is usually the better answer.